These holidays have done without great accomplishments, but I still decided to write a couple of beech trees in addition to the photos.
on December 31 the native 382 I arrived in Murmansk. I met the best in the world girl Nastya.
scored snaryagu to Nastia home and a little proshvyrnulis to Murmansk. At the five corners of all was ready for the New Year.
waited in the evening and come to the nature greet the new year. Meeting the new year - it is enough private, and therefore leave behind the scenes.
1 st January 2011 was in training camp. Fitting of the new lyzhiki ("Tourist" Kirov factory "Mayak"), packing backpacks. Backpacks, incidentally, got those yet: one had 16 cans of corned beef for two.
2 nd January 2011
In the second hour of the night plunged into a train and tu-tu ... the early morning were in Apatity train station.
After a while the bus took us in Kirovsk.
There we waited for over an hour on the bus Koashva. Luckily, right at the stop was a warm place, where we bummed tea and cakes.
На автобусе доехали до Коашвы. После выхода из автобуса
пересеклись с рыбаками, которые пообещали показать буранку до Умбозера. Пошли с
ними. По дороге went into what that garages where the fishermen were taken from linoleum scraper which put their things. We walked a couple of miles on buranke, then the fishermen turned off, previously shown us the direction of motion. Went on their own.
On the road met another fisherman. This time on the sled with motosobakami.
went on buranke, maintaining the direction to the forks with ZHPS. Buranka branched multiplied and become less resistant. Soon had to wear lyzhiki. Soon after crossing a luxury, not fully frosted Wetlands which, despite all the precautions we all lyzhiki still stained.
After a while out on the ice Umbozero.
Come to the north in the wake of the sled which dragged motosobaka. A few kilometers traces taken strongly to the west, somewhere in the direction of Lovozero. Steel tracks. Snow on the lake was only 20 inches so the speed of nearly fell.
After a while it became almost dark and we turned to the shore.
Ashore We waited for a surprise - about three feet of snow. The abundance of snow has allowed us comfortable in it to dig. After being washed down sushnina were trodden trails and cleaned the site under a tent and a fire in the snow was as comfortable in the apartment. And when he was strung campfire tilt-screen, and the fire was divorced More and warmth.
dinner, hang up.
3rd January 2011
woke up closer to dinnertime - making up for the pre-holiday lack of sleep. It was already light and through the fog were showing Lovozero.
breakfast (we have in Russia, when there was - then and breakfast), have gathered. Left in the third hour, which, given the polar night, coincided with the end of daylight.
go on the frozen lake in the dark was not very positive. But let's go. Send for several miles, when suddenly something crashed loudly. It seemed to me that the sound came from under their feet. Funky pozaproshlogodney tragedy with the guys from the MSTU in Lake Onega, I made a tantrum and wanted to go ashore. Then still went on. Again, something crashed. Stopped. When a little and stood and listened, it became clear that no rattles from under the feet, and from the koashvinskogo career. Blasts apart the rock on the pebbles. Soothing went on. Leg it some more miles and came to the corner bank. We had to take on the west to the confluence Tulyoka in Umbozero. At this corner, we clung to the shore.
parallel the direction of our movement was discovered quite fresh crack, and it is not clear how long. Here again I throw a fit and wanted to go ashore. If not for the movement in deep snow, so at least for the night. Although the mileage was not great, state of the organism and the time allowed to leave for the night. It was yet another shitty thing: a couple of hours earlier, I found that I had died, my proven lantern. In this case I (the first time damn it!) Did not bring reserve. To go with one it was inconvenient, to say the least, because of what happened on the ice was not visible. In general, the common reflection, we decided to crawl out on the beach for the night. I suggested already, Nastya - a couple of hundred meters further. I agree with that go hugging the shore. Come on. All the snow from the deflated Lake brought here, and the ice along the coast were torn. Movement was given is not easy. Managed to move so just a little bit when I trained on the IMB's eye saw the old svetootrazhayku the far from the lake the tree. 10-15 meters could be seen another one. I threw the backpack and walked between svetootrazhaykami. Overcoming bushes sinking into the snow on the fork was 10 meters. I wanted to say something obscene: I was standing on the chic, groomed winter roads.
No, we certainly have seen dotted line on the map marked trail. Moreover, we knew that at the confluence of Tulyoka in Umbozero a recreation center. But the thought that this road summer and winter not used. Such designated trails dotted Hibinah to hell, and are used One unit. The same road was not just dashed off: it has been cleared. By the road of such quality without problems rolled to a bicycle, even on the summer tires.
went on the road. The road was obviously not been cleared by fishermen and hence the recreation center operated. There was our hope to spend the night in the warmth, the more noticeably colder.
Bodrenko stamping on the road, dragging for a ski on a rope. At this point, over the top of the Lovozero Tundra break the eggshell borealis. They stopped and made a couple of photos.
At this very spot in my Accum fotik frozen. Usually, this case is in my pocket warms spare battery, but this time it was not. It was a pity, because severnoya lights are magnified.
However, it was not up to it. Stopping and taking pictures with minute exposures, I risked freeze the woman. As a result, the choice between his woman and the art is not completed in the latter.
Dotopali to recreation. Nothing so elitnenko. Not hozbloki and real kottedzhiki. Outdoor lighting worked. Generator rattled around us ran yelping dog. Slipped into a house - no one is dividishnik on TV, it smells bath. Went to another house, which stood in front of a snowmobile. From there came a pair of uncles.
communicate. From Uncle of lodging an agreement failed. Even for money. Radishes. Maybe not. During the call, looked at nailed to the house the thermometer: 32 degrees below zero. However!
Uncle told us that a couple of miles to the recreation center is a fisherman's cottage. We, when they came, saw svorotku, but attention is not given. Return to cottage.
house from the road is not visible, but found it quickly. Not a palace, but more than comfortable for our conditions. The main thing there was a stove.
Sleeping place (a person would be enough for 5) raised from the floor on the meter.
Left Nastya do things, and went on the hunt for sushninami. Lucky. Moving away 50 meters, and found a couple sushnin cut. While sushniny cut from the recreation center on the road rustled a couple of machines. Sushniny dragged to a hut. While butchered their well logs from the recreation center is one of the guards arrived on a snowmobile. Entered on the hill, convinced that we in the cabin, I waved my hand to him and he left.
Maybe guards are not that of radishes. Later, from the fishermen, we know that there are more recreation for buds. In addition to Murmansk and Apatity cones, look and Moscow. Perhaps our presence was undesirable. And as soon as dear guests have left (the two machines), one of the guards went to see that everything is in order.
Northern Lights at this point began to shine in all, with the eyes changed shape. And after 10 minutes was quickly melting, and soon disappeared.
yet prepared food, decorate the decision to merge tomorrow Kirovsk. To break at such temperatures in the mountains with a lantern and a little chippy hacksaw (the second I broke completely just, dopilivaya firewood, though were still a chain and an ax) and with one lamp as it is not wanted.
Dinner. Hut quickly protopilas: above zero degrees. Given that the outside below -30, it is not so bad. Front of the stove quite warm.
End.
4 th January 2011
Traditionally Late lift, breakfast, taxes. Charges in the warmth - this is nice. In the light of the day captured "our" house.
left, go down the road. Until Koashva Twenty and change. Need to be there until the last bus at the Kirov. Come smartly. By yesterday's frost also add mordoduy. A few days later lobe of my ear, sticking out at this point from under his cap, shabby. On the way we go much faster than optical lake, but there are some minuses: running along the beach road has pronounced relief.
beautiful places. Why is it so I think of Alaska. Lake and snow-covered mountains below a forest. Part Hibin by Umbozero significantly different from the part of the Hibin Imandra. Would like to sincerely wish that, when it will all be destroyed campaigns extractive minerals, kids of those who profited on this, to crush a piece of the extracted their parents.
On the road going somewhere hour. Then we caught up with two cars with the fishermen and asked us to take. We were brought up to Al Kirovsk (fishermen were there) so we escaped the unpleasant moments waiting for the bus in the cold in Koashva. Health and long life of these northern responsive to people.
read the continuation ofrouting information:
Koashva - the first overnight
first night - a fishing lodge
fisherman's cottage - a meeting with fishermen
road along the shore
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