unexpectedly came my 27-year anniversary. Began to ponder what to give his beloved. Decided to give myself one good weekend and picked up tickets to the Kola. On Friday night there, on Sunday evening - back. Maybe give ten thousand rubles for one weekend is over, but first I decided not to trifle on gifts to himself, and secondly a good campaign got organized only on one weekend and not one day more.
go, it was decided to Hibiny.
Airport is located in the Kola Murmashi (it is 20 kilometers from Murmansk) and from the airport still need to get to the town of Apatity (it's 200 km.). Taxis at such a distance - never a budget option. Began to work through a complex system airplane, train transfers, allowing no time off from work on Monday, and yet enough to walk through the mountains.
What finally was born:
Return flight flight Utair at 20:20 from Vnukovo. Arrive in Murmashi at 22:40. From Murmashi to Coke in a taxi, where I should sit down at 1:06 am on the train 099V, setting off from Murmansk by Peter at 0:50.
Back Train 022, arriving at 20:35 cola from Coca-Cola, a pre-booked taxi to the airport at 23:15 and fly back to Moscow.
In general, scheduled at 17:00 on Friday to go to work, to reach Vnukovo, register and get on board. For everything about everything - 3 hours. More than enough. Next scheduled at 22:40 to arrive in Murmashi, collect your luggage, take a taxi and catch the train to Kohl. In all, about all two hours and twenty minutes. Given that the airport Coke to ride only 20 minutes, time enough, too, even taking into account a possible delay of the flight (as it then seemed). Further planting of the train at 4:52 in the Apatity, bus to Kirovsk and ... hello mountains!
two days a breath of fresh mountain air, and on Sunday at the station. Imandra take the train 022CH, disembark at Kohl. During the movement of the train taxi to Cola. From Coca-Cola in a taxi to the airport. For everything about everything a little more than two hours. Again, all really. It is true in the case of my misses for the return flight, I weakly imagined how I would get home and then to wriggle out of work, which was late for a few days. However, it was a healthy adventure.
Tickets to all scheduled flights for two weeks before the trip were found, could only wait. Then I imagined how little force majeure smells ...
In Hibinah, and indeed in the mountains before, I can not say was. Skiing in the mountains at large - in a different way. The desire to get there was great. Absolutely no idea how many miles and how Climb to lay a day. Fortunately, from this headache get rid of me charming Severyanka-murmanchanka Nastya, which amounted to me campaign in this mini-campaign. She spent all the preparatory work on the Internet, reading recommendations to passes and multiplying the information on their experience.
In general, the route was born, the tickets are bought, snaryaga had, could only wait in anticipation of a pleasant pastime.
three days before departure, I woke up the ball at work call a mobile phone. Girl with a pleasant voice told me that my return flight from Murmansk canceled and me to rebook a flight at 20:00 on Sunday, which I get for all his desire can not. The girl I told about this, and we thought, to rebook I have a flight at 7:20 am Monday morning. On this trip I did not get to work that morning, so I had time off. This day was not the last in which I remembered by her mother Aeroflot in particular, and indeed Russian airlines as a whole.
Friday. I go out to work at a camp snaryage and 20-kg backpack. I could have more stuff, but only 20 pounds I can download to take place in an airplane. Although I still do not know where such a weight. Half kilo sleeping bag, three and a half - a tent. Couple cans tushnyaka - more pounds. We get that all sorts of buckwheat-pasta-cutting-onion-biscuit-flashlights-batteries and other small things pulled at 14 kilograms. Until now, scratching his turnip, trying to calculate how it happened.
end of the day, I was at a low startup. Prior to the Kiev station, there aeroexpress to Vnukovo. 300 rubles for 36 minutes in the train, which is almost 10 rubles a minute, Railways is announced as inexpensively and convenient.
last time on domestic flights, I flew back when he lived in another country, which was called the Soviet Union. After this summer only in Europe and the level of service there was completely different. Well, it a negative experience - he also experiences. So, Vnukovo, about 19 hours.
Interested at the information desk UTair, where they had the reception for those who registered through the Internet. It turns out that all stand in a queue that makes it impossible for online registration of all meaning. Joined minutes for 10-15, I hand luggage.
Three "security", for which there is dozens of outlets for the flights. People are put in conditions where behave like human beings do not come out. In one passage are those who fly in 2 hours and those who came before and those who crash through the half-hour. Those who fly now, of course, climb out of turn them climb all the rest. Formed a small part (of those who still do not understand how to construct the system and trying to be humans), but to stand in it - 100% Satisfaction Guarantee no time for your flight, how many had he not been, since the queue is not moving. Just people out of it, realizing the futility of the whole state, sooner or late, climb through.
Finally I'm going through "security". Terminal « D » - terminal for non-smokers. Apparently the toilet in the terminal is a sovereign territories in the terminal is not included - it smokes about 30 people at a time. Find the door of a toilet cubicle is an almost tactile.
Announced landing on the flight, serving a bus to the airplane. The most fashionable joke: "a bus to Murmansk?".
Sitting in an airplane - the departure time, even a little late. At this time aboard the result of the last passenger. Due to his condition, it would be better to hand over the luggage. Drunk in the trash. He was terribly pleased that passed security (as soon as he missed it), and stopping every few meters, then rubs the stewardess. Finally, his hostess seated and ... reports that we have drunk on board. Him removed from the flight, print out the luggage compartment, take out their luggage, take out your hand luggage on the runway was already obligingly waiting for a police officer. A delay of half an hour. When a person is sober, he put up a decent penalty for the delay. Finally ladder departs from the plane, but for some reason we will not fly. All at a loss. After a while the crew commander announced ... that in view of the flight to Sochi, the first State officials flight is delayed. B ... I am! I did so I can train and be late!
sit waiting. Spread the wine drinking with a neighbor to the health of the president (So it the wrong way to give birth to a hedgehog). Finally, the aircraft rolls out onto the strip taxiing and stops before leaving the runway. Another hour, we "miss" planes overlay on the land - they were waiting for the departure of President in the air. A special black humor - we fly almost to the minute, at a time when had to fly - at a quarter to eleven. Fly to somewhere in an hour. Around this time, my train will leave from Murmansk. Chance sit on it at Kohl not. During the flight, it turns out that my other neighbor's car is waiting and he was going to Olenegorsk. He was penetrating the situation offers (honest the word itself, I have not suggested itself) I have to go with him to the car and try to catch my train in Olenegorsk. In any case, from Olenegorsk reach Apatite several times closer than the airport.
In the end, all turns out. Obtain the baggage of the first machine, we have a couple of hours as a waiting ride. The first kilometers 20 crazy about is terribly slow - fog. Then dispersed. I remember the bad trip, trying to get some sleep. In a dream looking at the distance marker Olenegorsk and tried to estimate the time.
Station Olenegorsk to train another ten minutes. Managed. Give fairly modest sum of money for travel (Trying to give more, but the money was returned to me). Long life to children and their families. For me, the neighborhood seats on the plane turn up trumps. I understand from conversations at the airport to the train, which I still have time to get tried many. Before the arrival of the train have time to make some photo.
train arrive, finally met with Nastya. No matter what is not there at the wrong time, where he planned - the main met. The train is almost empty, but there already know about a flight delay. Train "elite" - new cars, all chrome and mirrors.
Originally the plan I had sleep off 4 hours by train, but now I can only sleep an hour - Apatity next station. It takes an hour, but my! Sleep.
landing in Apatity-1. After our landing the train at our car sit cyclists. With fulnikami and protection. Apparently catalytic DH somewhere in the mountains, but can only go somewhere (all the same Saturday morning). Backyard leave in Apatity, 15 minutes walk to the bus stop. After a while we sit on a bus and go to Kirovsk. Still dark, the bus starts taking a lot of drunken,'ll have some fun on Friday, and youth. Conductress Plants girls who sit in a noisy bus, for those with beer. While in the same bus, sit quietly guys and drink beer. Morality, which is manifested even in the case of a drunken passenger aircraft: drunk - behave quietly. Arriving in Kirov and immediately, almost without departing from the bus stop, negotiate with a taxi. We go to the "Botanical Garden". During the trip pay 100 rubles. Only here until I realize that at these prices, it was easier to call a taxi from Kirovsk the station in Apatity and save yourself time.
Meet.
And here we go Hibiny. For me, a momentous event - I Hibinah has never been. All the time I was attracted by the mountains when I went to Murmansk watching them from a car window. And finally, I am acquainted with them. Denser acquaintance held almost immediately: in passing the first stream I cheburyknulsya and decently kissed the wrist on the rocks.
go around the small Vudyavr from the east and north, we pass a couple of miles to the north. We need to pass between the ridges and Tahtarporr Pachvumchorr, then go west into the gorge Ramsay. We go not to the lowest point, and the slope Pachvumchorra. After a short meditation, comes the decision to climb to the top Pachvumchorra and see what can be seen from there. Decision at the time, so-so - There is still a day of great achievement and it is not clear if they know what we plan on time. Bright enough to take away Pachvumchorr. Top to the point where we went - about 760 meters. We are, according to a map, collected 320 meters altitude (320 to gps ). On the eastern side Pachvumchorra viewed Valley River Vilyavryok, Long Lake and the road going to the lake yugosever Goltsovoye and KCC.
also looked through the valley in which the We walked and Lake Small Vudyavr.
Directly beneath us was opened industrial landscape, which is the eye, frankly, not pleased. Commercials from Hibin make well as in Kovdor ...
little poslonyalis on top, take pictures sea of mist in the distance.
If I have anything to anything I understand, the hole - this hole, and nora
- the Rabbit (c)
02
down smartly, too: right after the descent was planned breakfast. Breakfast all the time looking to the south: from there we tried to capture the mist, but the headwind every time cast him back.
have breakfast almost an hour. After breakfast, start chosen to gorge Ramsay. Another slightly more than 2 kilometers in the rise, a set of about 280 meters on the map (200 to gps ) and we are at the entrance to the gorge.
Entering in the gorge. The path pierced the tourists, snowfields at the bottom of the gorge, a plaque explaining who this was Ramsay.
Gorge technically not complicated, just over half a mile pass in less than half an hour. The highest point at the exit from the gorge about 745 meters. Then another half an hour spent in descent, clear the 120 meters. However, the time is still accumulates: from the beginning of rise to the gorge, before the descent of his passes for 2 hours. We pass a kilometer to the north, is in the "circus": car from which we begin to climb the mountain pass east Petrelius.
It offers a good view no saddle Pass. Top of the pass tightens clouds.
If we take the pass from the south, from the upper river. Minor White to the river Petrelius, recovery is steep, the descent is much the position. Begins to rise.
By the time we were already halfway to the top, all decently shrouded with clouds, depriving the opportunity to admire the circus from the top of the pass.
lift from this side of simple. It is steep, but not long lasting. From the center Circus to the top of a mile, a set of about 270 meters. The coolest part of the length of 600 meters with a range of 220 meters.
At the top we like hedgehogs in the fog. Find a tour with him in under a month ago a note at the bank. A month ago it was August, just the height of tourist season.
should long descent into the valley of the river Petrelius. Sam pass cost us in 2 hours time (ascent and descent), given 10-minute break at the top. Next we go to north along the river valley Petrelius along the river on the road. The road is not ideal, but for mountain biking very much.
Next on the program we have planned for today just south Chorgorr. To this end, we in the right place to turn off the road to the west and cross a river. Determined by the location Chorgorra (externally как он выглядит
никто из нас не знает) и сворачиваем к реке. Пересекаем ее и устраиваемся на
обед. Время уже давно обеденное, да и сил уже особо не осталось, and in front of quite a decent pass.
dine and relax capital - all of this takes us 2 hours. We leave immediately begins the ascent. Force is, go smartly. Mostly peeps trail. 40 minutes recruit 150 meters height and reach areas, where there is a small lake. On site have a nice view over the valley.
continued growth, the longest and heaviest to date. But it technically, and therefore very interesting. There, barely visible trail, so special to invent a strategy expansion is necessary. Only at the end we went down a bit with the trivial path. On top is like a monument MEI student who did not return here in the distant 1975
whole climb from the river to the top of the pass was slightly more than 500 meters (highest point of my navigator was 863 meters). On the ascent we have spent almost 2 hours. View from the top toward the river valley Petrelius me not impressed, but the view from the saddle in the direction of our descent (in the north-west) was pleased. Seen Imandra. In the mountains, I'm a newbie, and a sense of distance leads me: it seems to me that the lake no more than 5 kilometers. Looking at the map, I understand that there are more than 10.
Then only descent. And not only today but also tomorrow. We need to be tomorrow at the station. Imanadra. Having passed through the pass, we were in the upper reaches of the river Chasnoyok along which we need to go to its confluence with the p. Goltsovka, and further along Goltsovki been to st. Imandra. All along the river, all the way down. From the top it is 20 km., And mainly along the trail.
decide today to go before dark and, preferably, to reach the first tree, well, everything will get tomorrow. Get down. In the place of the steep slope becomes almost flat, there is a small lake with very clear water. Clear water allows you to see here and there on the bottom of garbage that they threw back what the animals.
go another 2 hours, going through 10 kilometers. Along the way enjoy the sunset views.
begins to darken and the last mile we are looking out for a place in the parking lot. As for evil, there is no single site where you can stick a tent (I have it healthy).
Finally there is a small area, put a tent. One edge of the tent, we just creeps on the footpath, the other side of 10 centimeters from the meter cliff. Sleep have sliding against each other. Of course, after we put the tent and spread things turned out that 20-30 meters away is the elegant, equipped with a halt, platform. But laziness is interchanged. Dinner, hang up.
Imandra and Murmansk.
leave. Trail a little bit away from the river and through the half-kilometer Chasnoyok crosses the river Goltsovka. We pass a pair of firs: in this place it is still not serious.
Over the river trail is becoming more serious. Then go along the river Goltsovka. Christmas trees are already quite a larger area typically Karelian. Goltsovka becomes more serious after the confluence of the rivers and Chasnayok Manipahk
After another 6 miles start to think how to live : Time has a wagon and the station is less than four kilometers. Decide to do a little Radialka, but something we have not built up with navigation and pobrulyav several kilometers through the forest growing on a hillside Hibinpahkchorr, we go to a dry lake.
from the lake, the trail we leave to Goltsovke, and pass it on a log cable replacement railings.
especially without departing from the bridge gets a light lunch, how can we kill time, but we leave towards the station is still a wide margin over time. At the station we have an hour before the arrival of our train.
After a short period of time it turns out that the station we came very timely: it begins quite a decent rain, from which we are hiding in a dilapidated littered depot.
train arrives at 17.32, parking is one minute. In our car we did not expect to fall into our car through a neighbor. Herded aunt has settled in our place, and half-way rides teas. The conductor of our train comes later, but he was a lazy approach to us, to tear at our backs tickets.
Arrives scheduled to Murmansk. Get rid of things, an hour and a half walking around the city. It is a pity that there is a tripod - the city at night makes a lot of beautiful nocturnal species.
view of the night port
couple hours of sleep (thanks to the hosts for their hospitality), morning tea and a taxi lucky me Murmashi - the airport of Murmansk. Some time walking around the airport. Photograph laziness. Inside, nothing changed for a long time, clearly from the Soviet era. An explicit plus airport - is the presence of a kiosk, where you can buy souvenirs are cheaper than in the museum of Murmansk, as well as various chocolates and doshiraki to completely normal prices.
Crews 'security', I go to register. Even yesterday, called in Aeroflot, learned about the possibility of check-in online in the Murmansk airport. Said that the on-line registration no. Now I see why. Aunt to register "Records" of all passengers currently on a sheet of A4 paper, then wrote all the knobs on the ticket. Wow! Baggage check just Otpad! Cardboard card, which is torn in half. Receives half the passenger, the second on a rope attach to things. On the cards proudly label "Sovet airlayns! Do not rule out that these cards can be with my peers.
I put my backpack on the scales. Arrow long range, and soon I sigh with relief: to the superiority I do not have lasted gram 100. The fact that I'm taking with me a few pounds of fish. With a small delay occurs landing on the board.
Departure without much adventure. Well, only half an hour later, but I was not surprised by this. A lot of time lost in the ball : Almost half an hour waiting for luggage and walked very far before aeroeksperssa. In the air express people were less than cars.
That is, in principle, and all. Trip was very pleased. As they say, well ... but a few. With the weather again sfartilo. I was expecting in September Hibiny still packed with tourists, as watermelon seeds, but we met no one.
enclose a route, tracks and some of what "altimetry data" on the march, if anyone interesting.
data on the heights
route on the map
