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Day Four - fish with the north to the south. (Trip on the peninsula Rybachiy)

Day Four - Rybachy from north to south.


I woke up on that clapped canopy tent. I put a tent in the evening on the basis of direction wind, and fasten it to the end just too lazy. Wind is a night changed its direction by 90 degrees and was blowing very strongly.

After that, everything is familiar and banal : Lift, buffet breakfast, taxes. All morning, half a kilometer from our small herd of deer grazing, and it seemed we did not notice. If anyone then had to "pee on a grand scale, then went "in-oh-oh-o-n for the hill" at 300 meters. Closer was simply nowhere to go.

fourth day was very special to me view is not marked. Crossed Rybachiy from north to south - from Cape Mal. Skorbeevsky to mount coils and lips Eyna.Do lunch, rocky, and sometimes not technically simple, which sometimes flowed streams (which is typical along). We passed the height of the parapets are completely covered fortifications and trenches (very small).

Proshvyrnulis the trenches, hoping to find something interesting. Serega found half-rotten cloth sticking out of the ground. Pulled in a dozen of her sleeves. When a clear one, were disappointed: the year of release liner was 1952. So these were not the remains after the war, and remnants of the exercise took place on the island later. Apparently the military did not hesitate used for strengthening exercises started during the Second World War.

fourteen and a half

passed at this altitude two mass graves. One represented the number of stone slabs more or less regular shape stuck into the ground on one of the which was half-rotten helmet.

After reading the book "The Orphaned shore" I have the impression that not all dead a fishing could be buried, but this, apparently out of luck.

... every soldier who fought on the side of the Germans, knew that in case of death he will be buried in all the honors at a cemetery in Petsamo, and his personal belongings will be sent home.

Russian soldiers fought under the cover of the bodies of fallen friends. Fatalities in the attack for years remained in the neutral zone. We still can not give the names of all the defenders Musta ridge, laid her head for their country. Shame and bitter, ladies and gentlemen ...

M. Oresheta orphaned coast

The second tomb is clearly post-war. The monument at the foot of which three helmets and a bowler hat. And the list of bodies buried on a marble slab.

near another stream had lunch and drove on. Ride was fun. Stony ascents and descents are preserved, but they added a great many fords. Some easily passed. Some were overcome with the bike at the ready (On the principle that if it is still wet, or leg or both legs and a bicycle, it is best to wet the feet only). Brody with running water were not particularly unpleasant, and Here's where the water stood on the road, there is smell of diesel fuel, and to bathe in such was not like that.

that's such great road ...

one of the many fords

went ashore lips Ain. Beautiful place. If it were not for the need to adhere to the schedule, could spend the night here. There is a flowing river and a small creek.

Bay Ayn

Next in the group had little debate on how to ride. Rise is back on the mountain and Hank go as planned or to go on the detected road along the sea. And she, and other roads, in theory, should lead us to in subsection Bol. Lake. Only the road "povrehu" envelope from the north hill Hank has been verified, but about the way the bottom is known there was nothing. Fortunately, good sense prevailed enthusiasts head of exploration and we decided to go for a proven way
from the lip Ayn went back to the mountain Hank and drove along the road leading to the Bol. Lakes. Again a large number of fords, but when the road went along the coast (from the mountains to Rokapahta Bol. Ozerka, along the shore lip Bol. Skein) relief lined and quality graders had improved markedly.
On approaching the village of Big Ozerki question arose about the place out for the night. Sleep near "neftegorodka and ruins Bol. Ozerka did not want to spend the night should therefore hold or right now on some of the rivers (in this section fall into the sea once the three rivers - growth, Poltyn and Morozov), or already on the Middle Peninsula that meant 10 more miles. krutezhki. The quality of the road favored, so we decided to turn to medium. On the way I died spring, distributing pads. Spent another 15-20 minutes to replace (luckily, Seryoga had a couple of spare sets himself then I do not care to buy a spare before departure).
village of Bol. Pool drove past without stopping. Slipped "neftegorodok" wrap around so our track. Quickly passed the isthmus between the fishermen and the Middle. At the entrance to the Middle turned onto the road, leaving the north-west (Toward the camp. Zemlyanov (Pummanki), on the western shore of the lips Volokovaya).
The idea was to get to the river bulging and there spend the night. Generally, the north-east coast Medium rivers mentioned small (generally only on dvuhkilometrovke bulging), and therefore the place of lodging options are not many.
We got to the point where the river empties Lunge in the sea. Of the isthmus between the Middle and fishing road is of a medium quality grader, who from time to time, changed nasty sites of coarse gravel and cobble. Near the place where the river is protruding into the sea is the host. Earthy (Pummanki), where there are several residential (judging by the light in windows) of buildings. Sleep next to them the desire not arisen, and in the search overnight turned to bulging river on the road stretching to the south-west, leading into the village. Earthwork. The road, judging by the map, runs parallel to the river but the river could not see. Congresses of the river, too lacking. Right and left of the road dense bush, parading through which randomly does not like. As a result, about a kilometer away, while on the road, we heard the sound of the river, and proceeding from the fact that at this point the river should is closest to the road and turned. Having less than 100 meters have been on a steep bank of the river protruding where they stopped for the night.
site chosen at night, it was pleasant enough, but not without flaws. First we were on a steep, steep bank, at an altitude of 6.5 meters above the water, and every time descend a saucepan with some water pose a particular challenge. And secondly, it emerged this morning, our side of the river was shaded in the morning and there was not very warm. In place of the pros looked like a waterfall and an abundance of mushrooms.

Continued - Day Five-Peninsula Middle

Men In Women´s Girdles

Day Six - the German way, Pechenga and, finally, Polar. (Trip on the peninsula Rybachiy)

Day Six – немецкая дорога, Печенга и, наконец, Заполярный.

Не смотря на поздний отбой, подъем дался нам относительно легко. Завтрак, сборы. Как то не верилось, that in this campaign it was our last night in tents.

Going morning walk up the hill with a specific purpose (will not elaborate with what), I returned to drawing two mortar shells caliber over 100 mm. These were not the only finds of this kind, in the evening, before the Musta-Tunturi Eugene found near a road mine. I hasten to refute accusations of idiocy: the mines were no detonators and explosives. The tail part of the same represented the empty pipe without the gunpowder. Over these mines have someone to work and they represent themselves only a shell. And I still want to warn of future explorers Rybachi: do not rush paw similar findings, case detection is not neutralized ammunition (from the words of diggers) are not rare.

leave, and not even it's too late. Began to overcome the German roads. We built it at the beginning of the war the Germans, as the rear. Technically it is not easy, but walking on it to go anywhere is not necessary. On the map it is marked by almost straight lines, but in fact it always winds between the mountains and lakes, because of what the actual distance increasing times in half. Straight and flat sections, it has not. According to her all the time, or slowly creep up and frantically rushing down. Down the road, almost always runs near some lakes. It looks incredibly beautiful.

traffic on a busy road can not be called: for all time we have met all three cars and a group kvadratsiklistov. Two of three cars stopped on the one hand, and obviously not going to take the road whole. I can safely recommend this road mountain biking enthusiasts, and motoenduro kvadratsiklistam. Of the vehicle as the road to cope with this far Not every SUV. Although I think the army "ATVs" GAZ-66 and Ural, I think, will be held without any problems.

very interesting design of the road. Often, the side we see that the road was built, apparently by hand. All stones are adjusted one by one. Apparently this is the reason that 70 years later, the road still in good condition.

on the road quite often come across modern ammunition. Fresh (2002 issue) 5,45 mm caliber cartridges. and foreign, caliber 308 (7,62 mm.) vinchesterovskie.

passed and lie right in the middle of the road round (Plural, most likely, a tank or artillery do not know).

By approximation to the dinner time stopped for lunch near a beautiful little lake with a duct. After lunch, a few kilometers, we passed a "pistol" lake. Lake was among the local name of "Pistol" is clearly in its shape. On the map this lake can be determined almost unmistakable. After the lake the road turns a good grader and begins a smooth descent to the Bay Pechenga. Before her, the last on the route, a small but very pretty waterfall.

Pistol

They came ashore Pechenga lips when it was low tide, that we were pleased because previous day, from the diggers, we learned that after the German roads would be special stage : A small strait, which can be crossed only at low tide. Go tell that it was disinformation: to overcome the canal with a bike is always possible (On the Internet is video, as it ferried a group at high tide - the water around the chest).

We reached ducts crossed. Water was maximum in the knee, but it is very silty and muddy, so udelalis. IMHO - no need to look where the smaller, moreover, directly.

Attention! Immediately after the described channel to action begins military training ground, where warriors are sometimes seriously played in the war. Of course, if you have not ran into the cordon on the German road soon all quiet there, but who knows these gouging ... So do not jump out at speed on the ground immediately after the ducts, but be careful to look out and look around.

When we passed the ground, there was quiet. Although the passage of "pistols" on the road we met an army 66-th Gaz, who was standing there obviously is not just so. As he rode past him, I caught the phrase "manage to slip through." Whether it is to us do not know.

After polygon crossed the bridge over flowing into the Bay, river Pechenga. Immediately after the bridge began Pechenga city. When traveling, it appeared that the city is halfway out of the military part, due to that military facilities have been made to the road.
Despite the fact that we have already started breaking the no coffee, 3-in-1 and biscuits "Jubilee", a shop in Pechenga not deserve our attention, and collecting all the will in a fist, we passed the turn to him. Decided to go directly to the city of Polar and there has to arrange a celebration of the stomach.
Asphalt from Pechenga to Polar - sucks. Coarse-grained and does not "rolling." A ride on it is not so little: from Pechenga to Polar 23 km. On the road Polar arranged to camp with a dip in the creek.
When, finally, the road turned on, the Polar, the spectacle was opened is not the most pleasant. The town stands on the background heaps of ore. Oti the left of a large factory, which brings down the pipes, settling on the city smoke. All this smacks of man-made hell. At Polar we had not just. There we planned to sit on diesel, which was to take us to Murmansk.

Here we expect a nasty surprise: we expected diesel was supposed to go only to the 3.15 nights (we thought that it would be in the hours and arrived in advance). Station, by the way, is located in the plant. As Once we got to the station, we drove up to the guard and asked whether we know that we are at the factory and what we are doing here anyway. Our responses satisfy him and he left, but we have to rack their brains over what to do next. It was originally planned to purchase snacks and sit down at the station, but when they saw the station to sit on it perehotelos. All the dusty, dirty, filled in some heavy oil-grease-kreazotom. Went to the shop, buy snacks. While standing at the store, the local (sober among them was not ... but how else is on a Friday night) learned that the parks in town and if we are to nature have to go out of town. Let's go back to the station hoping to find something, but absolutely nothing on the road was not. As a result, already at the entrance to the factory, about whether an abandoned warehouse, or shop, found a relatively clean and quiet area, where made a real feast. Coffee and cookies were delicious.

Polar. Above the city smog.

place of our halt (this place was the most enjoyable in the city)

station at the plant (photo by Eugene)

pomerznuv Few at the station at 3.15, we still went to Murmansk. In a diesel engine a bit and slept all morning, enjoying the scenery outside the window. 7 hours Our diesel has overcome about 200 km. and in the beginning of the eleventh morning we were in Murmansk.


Continued - Murmansk and ... The Kola Song for saying good!

Us Army The North Face Fleece

Day Five-Peninsula Medium (Trip on the peninsula Rybachiy)

Day Five - Peninsula Average

Despite the fact that to get to the fifth day was to much (it was necessary to almost completely overtake the Middle Peninsula), the rise and the morning charges were not hurrying. Place this helped. Meters in 50 of the tent was small but pretty waterfall that fell into an increase in the size of a small pool and a depth of not less than 2-3 meters. Nearby was the 3-meter cliff. Despite all the conditions for diving and swimming, had not reached due to the fact that water in this pool was extremely cold. Much colder than the sea and all that we met earlier reservoirs. On the other side, even at night, I found a long way not less than 50 meters, the trench, with dozens of shooting positions. Trench, of course, was examined and photographed. All this, plus the fact that I was busy as usual for a long time When gathering took some time, resulting in a left we are only at the beginning of the first hour.

Back on the road from the camp. Earthen (Pummanki), with which we turned into the evening, we went on it further to the northwest to the northern tip of the peninsula Medium - Cape Ground. A few more kilometers grader of average quality, which met regularly covered with large pieces of rubble, then followed a decent grader.
About per mile to Cape Ground road forks into two. They go hand in hand. Between them, about a kilometer ... and a decent break, get down with that or climb up on that, with the bike at the ready, is not feasible. Attention! "Lower" road (the one that the north, running along the sea) on the map, approximately a kilometer after the Cape of earthy, connected to the "top" expensive (the one that runs south from the slope of Mount Ground (Pummanki)). In fact, "inferior" road miles in three runs into a military unit and who knows what will end an attempt to pass through it. Track that we used was "over." Before the fork in the road, I turned at random, towards the sea. There was a tall, 15-20 meters high, cliff, with a magnificent view.

obryvchik on Cape Ground - 12 meters at least

nervishki also have to tickle yourself - there is on the verge of yet and the wind blowing about-ho-ho

Not knowing that the road along the coast of Cape earthen rested in a military unit, we went for it (and what about the spirit of the pioneers?). Cape Ground location is very nice. Left on the course of our moves up steeply cliff to the right was the sea (where we drove this road back was, and vice versa).
first interesting finding Cape Ground became two rocks sticking up. Later, reading a book Oresheta "Orphaned land", which describes the history of Fishing, I found a reference to the these rocks:
... Between the sea and rocks - shallow green Berezhok. On it stand two meters tall stone pillar on the ten. Stay near them. This sacred Lapps stones - it is our memory. Have long worshiped them man asked for help, intercession, blessing ...

sacred rock Sami What we have seen them

illustration from the book Oresheta

Another interesting finding was tracked all-terrain vehicle. He lay rinks up and, judging by sagging roof, fell off a cliff here. The rock in this place is high, and this fall could cost someone's life. All that he could be removed, it was removed.

GTS

Almost before reaching the place where the "lower" and "top" the road should connect, we climbed the hill and saw that the road runs into a military unit. There was a kind of barrier and sign "travel is forbidden!". Option to skip through some haphazard us as it does not deceive. And the ache in the crawl, walk on the rocks with the bike at the ready, selected to have a lot of time and effort. Returned to the fork in front of the cape and went to the "upper" road. They passed it by a military unit, after which the road turned south and began quietly removed on the coast (the coast was spent in the south-west). At the entrance to the village, marked on my dvuhkilometrovke as "Village", a regular stream, we stopped for lunch.
During lunch, I discovered a new dish. Boil them water, sleep there more noodles "trehminutki" (not Rollton) and added there polkubika broth. When the noodles are swollen in water up to the state of porridge (boiled 5 minutes), there remains filled mayonnaise, which I gave Zhenya. Tried and tutzh e ate almost all of 30 seconds. You can, of course, say that after days of foot Arctic and old outsole with mayonnaise seems incredibly delicious (and perhaps this is), but after this trip, I prepared this "Dish" more than once and each time I like it less. Entertained friends, they loved too. Main stir while cooking noodles to the bottom is not burnt.
They left after a halt for lunch with a sincere desire to turn and nowhere to stay (with brulyaniya Cape Earthy passed was drastically little and had to navestyvat). Our enthusiasm only lasted so long, until we went back to the sea and saw the concrete artillery fortifications (do not know as they "Science" are called). In Perovo was empty, but the second we found the gun, located, in my opinion, in excellent condition. In the grease and with a preserved grease. Bottom of concrete base with a rim of the upper frame tubes poryty rotten planks. Around the entrance to the gun, no one knows where the outgoing, underground concreted transition.

Pushshshka!

schA bahnem! (Aimed at akkurat in Norway - what we did wrong with Norwegians)

mink

thorn

enthusiastic we Rushed on the side showing the ruins ... and as it turned out Rushed in the wrong direction. To the ruins all still arrived, there was a monument to him hoisted on the projectile. Then he came back. From artillery fortifications necessary to us the road went north along the coast. Let's go over it in the direction of Cape Metalaniemi. We reached a fork. The main road went straight on a minor went along the coast Cape Metalaniemi (pictured Cape it is viewed).

At the entrance to this fork, I noticed a deviation from the track. Tried to pass on the road marching the Cape, and then going straight on the road ... and both were not on track. The track was between them and went through a field consisting of large boulders smoothed, apparently, heavy machinery (harrows of Technology in the photo as viewed). In general, what a man's hand touched the middle of the peninsula was visible even when we were on its east coast: some mountains were not natural slopes, and steep, artificial collapse. Apparently so quarried stone. Decided to go not on track and on the map. Around this time, my browser stopped showing traveled track (was not the right time to uncheck the magazine track memory is filled). While I understood the instrument, we had otbrulyat several kilometers.

Cape Volokovaya

past the Cape and Cape Metalaniemi Volokovaya we were even not on the map, and stupidly keeping areas and trails. A slight Brule. They passed the ancient sites of reindeer herders, or somebody else, and less modern, abandoned but not destroyed buildings enclosed by a fence with barbed wire. Curiously, of course, but the time to do research was not there. In the end, felled The road that had sunk to the sea, just south of Cape Volokovaya. Memorable descent, rather steep, with trees on both sides that seem artificially planted. Rolled down to the sea, we felled by a road that ran along the coast (Bay Mal. Volokovaya) and drove over it in the south-east of the isthmus between the middle and Kola.

Out on the road, began to ponder how to live. Time, it was already evening, and to the point of spending the night (scheduled ash on the German way) was still far off. More Facebook climb Musta ridge tired and hungry as it is not wanted. Came to the decision to arrange before getting the pass to stop, eat, relax and later still to go before the planned point of spending the night, even if you have to go at night.
on the isthmus between the middle and Kola, as planned, in the first convenient place decided on a snack.
It was a little sad, because immediately after the meal, we had to leave the peninsula. During this stop from the mountain we went to a local digger (as I understand, from those who are engaged in search and reburial of the dead soldiers during the war and simultaneously neutralize found ammunition). Conversation. Discussed the cards, we have consulted on the upcoming route. Departing from us, he later rode with three colleagues two Lunokhod. A little more discuss-maps, routes, and talked about the history of the peninsula in general, then diggers have gone further.

where it is - a rabbit!

Snyavshis to a halt, we began to slowly climb Musta ridge. The rise of the ridge from the middle was given why it is much easier than from the Kola. We had to light the beacons and lights, as The sky was very prolonged and polar twilight "could not see. Climbed to the pass Then a mad night descend to the fork of a German road. Turning on German roads, steel, with a clear conscience, look for a place to sleep. After a time such a place was found and we stopped.

Actually the place was so-so, but better still there was not. Nearly everyone falls off mountain stream was the same pattern: a steep descent from the top, bottom feet squelched moss or standing water. Near a brook, rising to 15 meters up, we still found more or less flat area, on which he settled.


Continued - Day Six - the German way, Pechenga and, finally, Polar.